Films
African Kirra
In the middle of summer, starved of any good surf, we set our sights north, looking past borders in search of lesser known, less consistent spots, rumoured to produce quality surf in the off-season. Luckily for us, knowledge of an extremely fickle right hand sand-spit, coincided with the rare swell and wind combination it needs to come alive. Chatting with people in the know, we were informed that the swells needed to awaken this beast were a once-a-year occurrence and that the size and quality of surf expected on that particular swell was likely to eclipse anything seen there in the last 15 years. Needless to say, we packed our bags and made the long, grueling trek.
We arrived to perfect three-foot barrels dredging along the sand bank for hundreds of meters. It was as if we’d pitched up at the world famous Kirra before it’s discovery, free to bask in the glory of uncrowded perfection.
Skeleton Bay
After hearing word that the swell of the decade was marching towards the west coast of Africa, Chris and I hopped in the car, making the 22 hours journey up from Cape Town To skeleton bay. Leaving at 2 in the morning, we drove through the day, straining to keep our concentration. As the sun set, the road turned to dirt, littered with bumps and potholes. We continued on, endless barrels fuelling our fire. Eventually, after a few sketchy moments, we arrived as the clock neared 12 am. A short 6 hour sleep had to suffice. We knew the next day would pump and couldn’t bare the thought of missing out.
After another hair raising drive, fighting to avoid getting stuck in the thick, waterlogged sand, we arrived to clean conditions, 6 foot barrels, and every professional surfer you could think of. Brushing aside stage-fright and apprehension at the sight of all of our hero’s, we scrambled to throw on our wetsuits and jump in the water. The next week was a blur, filled with endless days and endless barrels.
We know you’ve seen the pros getting barrelled for hundreds of metres. We also know that you’ve wondered whether you have what it takes, whether a mere mortal can tame the beast. The truth is, Skeleton bay is trickier to ride than it looks, and it took some time to dial in. But we got there, eventually. We hope you enjoy watching us, stickerless surfers, learn how to navigate this African beast.
